ruahine tops longview-howletts tramp part 3

(Link here for Part 1) (Link here for part 2) Next morning the goal was to get an early start leaving Howletts Hut – early enough to see a promisingly warm sunrise.


This was the weather we’d been waiting for. As the day progressed it became quite warm and still. Warm enough to work up a sweat jolting down the knee-jarringly steep spur from Howletts Hut to the riverbed and Daphne Hut.


Past Daphne Hut you have to walk along the riverbed, crossing several times. Great to take off the shoes and feel those rocks with your bare feet.


Then bask in the sun on the other end – at a bend in the river that looks like a nice camping spot (for future reference).


Hey why not just leave those feet au natural for the rest of the tramp. It’s warm enough.


Now more ridge walking – good views, in exchange for steep ups and downs. The track was well-formed and well-travelled. This time in beech forest – providing welcome shelter from the sun. Here are some things that caught my eye.



A possum skull.


A wacky fungus growing on the side of a tree.


And a tree that thoughtfully moved out of the way of the path.


At the high point of the ridge, we stopped for lunch in a spot of sun. Shortly along trundled some folks from the tramping club coming to check in their hut. We gave them a positive report on Howletts!

Back to the car, where the customary “after” photo was taken – then on to the village of Ongaonga where we celebrated with a ginger beer and an ice cream from the general store, then parted ways.



ruahine tops longview-howletts tramp part 2

(Link here for Part 1)

Next morning we took our time and were last to leave Longview Hut. Gave us time to watch the others walk down the ridge the way we’d come the day before. Can you spot them below?


This day’s walk definitely qualifies as a route – as shown in the map. Because it mostly followed the ridgetop, and was mostly marked by poles, it was not too hard to stay on track, but we really had to watch our step as the way was mostly hidden by the tussock. The previous days’ rain made for some squishy walking across Pohangina Saddle, and made eroded sections slippery. Here’s the view across Pohangina Saddle toward Otumore.


After a short rest at a sheltered spot just past Otumore, we headed on down the ridge. Great views down into the headwaters of the Tukituki River, and west across the plains toward Hastings as well as east across the Ruahines.

Then a steep climb down to another saddle – this one with a huge active landslip on one side. Great spot for a stone-rolling competition. Whose lasts longest before smashing to smithereens?

Across the saddle was a steep climb up to Taumatataua point on Daphne Ridge. Tussock provides good handholds when climbing up a slippery clay bank. The wind was whipping around up top, but a few minutes walk further and we found a nicely sheltered spot to break out lunch. There are some odd ditch type features up there, that look a bit like seismic faults. Good for shelter from the strong northerly.

The rest of the walk along Daphne Ridge was a real treat – all along a steep ridgetop with great views. Some interesting old bleached-out tree stumps and sub-alpine plants. I wonder what the history of this area is. Much of this area has no mature trees, only tussock and short shrubs – although there are carcasses of old trees up top, and some beautiful native bush between here and Kashmir Rd. I guess there was a big forest fire here some decades ago.

All of a sudden – we were literally on top of Howlett’s Hut. This one is not managed by DOC, as the signage made clear, but anyone is welcome to stay. What a gem of a hut – nicely situated with a view and yet sheltered from the wind – and clearly well looked after by the local tramping club.


The hut has lots of windows, all well-placed for views. Even a view of the long-drop toilet – which in itself has a great view from the throne.

Jean was keen to find some firewood, and after a short walk down the track after the hut, and a scramble downhill, we found an old snag that gave up its limbs to us. Back in the hut, we fired up the woodstove, started warming up the yummy chili, and vegged out. We had the place to ourselves, such luxury. Good chance for two friends to catch up with each other again.


Good food heated on a crackling wood fire, good talk, a colourful sunset, and a restful night. Just what was needed.

(Link here for Part 3)

ruahine tops longview-howletts tramp part 1

For this year’s traditional ANZAC weekend tramping trip, we got off the beaten path and headed for the Ruahines. To catch better weather we shifted the start of the trip back by a day – which proved to be a wise decision.

The plan was to park the car on Kashmir Rd, walk to Longview Hut the first day, walk along the Otumore and Daphne ridges to Howletts Hut the second day, and walk via Daphne Hut back to Kashmir Rd the third day.

May 2016 tramp

We parked at the Daphne trailhead, walked to the end of the road, and had our lunch. The clouds were obscuring the tops, but appeared to be lifting, suggesting we’d have some views from the hut.


The shoes quickly came off. Mud’s a bonus pleasure when tramping barefoot!

IMG_0040 crop

Steep climb, but entirely on the ridgetops, with mist flowing around and clearing from time to time to show dramatic panoramas.



Longview Hut was visible from some distance away. The tussock on the tops glowed in the afternoon light.


It only took a couple of hours to walk to Longview Hut, we arrived by around mid-afternoon with plenty of time to rest and watch the light fade. A couple had arrived beforehand and lit the fire so it was warm and comfortable. He was American and she British. Another couple arrived not long after – she Dutch and he French. The Dutch tramper had some interesting tales about walking the South Island portion of the Te Araroa Walkway. She was currently doing the oddest post-graduate study – tagging kiwi to track the ticks that live on them! (?!)

The massive full moon rising that evening must have angered the weather gods – because all night the hut was battered by ferocious northerlies. The noise and shaking was awesome.


(Link here to Part 2) (Link here to Part 3)